ServicesDriveways
Concrete Driveways in Laguna Hills
We take out the old driveway, build a solid base and pour new concrete that handles your cars for years. You get a written estimate, a clear schedule and a crew that cleans up like it's our own street.
A new driveway, built from the dirt up
A driveway carries more weight than any other concrete at your home. Cars, delivery trucks and the odd moving van all roll over it. When the slab under them is thin, sits on loose fill or was never given proper joints, it cracks, sinks and lifts. Patching a slab like that only buys time.
Our driveway work is full replacement and new installation. We remove what's there, fix what's underneath and pour a new slab sized for the load. Much of south Orange County sits on clay soil that swells when wet and shrinks when dry, so the base and the joints matter as much as the concrete.
We work the way we'd want a contractor to work on our own block. We show up when we say, keep the street clear and tell you straight what your driveway needs.
What the job includes
- 01
Tear-out and haul-off
We break up the old concrete or asphalt and haul it away. You don't end up with a pile of rubble on the curb.
- 02
Base prep and compaction
We grade the soil, bring in base rock where it's needed and compact it in layers. A firm, even base is what keeps a slab from settling later.
- 03
Rebar and forms
We set forms to the right slope so water runs away from the garage and the house. Rebar goes in on chairs so it sits inside the slab, not on the dirt.
- 04
Pour and finish
Most driveways get a broom finish for grip. If you want color or a pattern, we can talk about stamped concrete for the driveway or just the borders.
- 05
Control joints
We cut or tool joints at planned spacing. Concrete will crack a little as it cures, and joints tell it where to do that so it stays neat.
- 06
Cleanup
We rinse the street, pull the forms and leave the edges ready for landscaping.
Questions about Driveways?
Call(949) 386-2816Signs it's time for a new driveway
Cracks that keep growing
A hairline crack is normal. Cracks that widen each year, or that have one side higher than the other, usually mean the base has moved.
Sunken or tilted sections
If a section has dropped and water pools on it, the soil underneath has settled or washed out. The fix is a new base, not a topping.
Lifted by roots
Tree roots can heave a slab and leave trip edges. We remove the damaged concrete and deal with the root path before the new pour.
Crumbling surface
Flaking, pitting and loose gravel on top point to a weak mix or a bad finish from the start. It won't get better on its own.
Old asphalt or a driveway that's too small
Plenty of people just want more room or a cleaner look. Widening for a third car or swapping tired asphalt for concrete are both common jobs for us.
How a driveway job runs
- 1
Site visit and written estimate
We come out, measure, check the slope and look at drainage. You get a written estimate that lists demo, base, concrete and finish as separate lines.
- 2
Permits and scheduling
If the work touches the curb cut, apron or public sidewalk, the city usually requires a permit, and we handle that. We give you a start date and let you know about parking during the job.
- 3
Demo and base day
We remove the old slab, grade and compact the base, then set forms and rebar. This is the loud day. We keep the street and your neighbors' driveways clear.
- 4
Pour day
We pour, finish and tool the joints the same day. In warm, dry weather we work early and keep the surface from drying too fast.
- 5
Curing and walkthrough
You can walk on it in a day or so. Keep cars off for about a week so the concrete can gain strength. We do a final walkthrough with you before we call it done.
What moves the price of a driveway
Every driveway is a little different, so we price from what we see on site. The estimate breaks it into lines so you can see where the money goes. Nothing gets added later without a conversation first.
- Size and thickness
- Square footage drives the concrete and labor. A driveway that takes heavier vehicles may need a thicker slab or more rebar.
- What's coming out
- Removing thick concrete, old asphalt or a slab with heavy rebar takes more time and more haul-off than a thin one.
- Slope, soil and access
- Steep hillside driveways need more form work and care on pour day. Soft or clay-heavy soil may need extra base rock.
- Finish and color
- A broom finish is the simplest. Color, stamped patterns or decorative borders add material and labor.
- Permit work
- Replacing the apron or a section of sidewalk at the street brings permit fees and inspection time into the job.
Driveway questions we hear most
How long before I can park on my new driveway?
You can walk on it after about a day. We ask that you keep cars off for roughly a week. Heavier vehicles should wait longer, and we'll tell you how long based on the slab we poured.
Can you pour new concrete right over my old driveway?
We don't. A new layer on top of a cracked or sunken slab follows the same problems, and it can raise the driveway above the garage floor. We take the old one out and start from a proper base.
Will my new driveway crack?
Concrete shrinks as it cures, so small cracks can show up. Control joints, rebar and a well-compacted base keep those cracks in the joints and stop them from spreading or lifting. That's why we spend so much time on prep.
How long does the whole job take?
Most driveways take a few working days from demo to pour, then about a week of curing before cars go back on. Permits at the street can add time up front. We give you a clear timeline in the estimate.
Can I get a decorative look?
Yes. We can add color, a stamped pattern or a stamped border around a broom-finished center. Our Stamped Concrete page shows more of what's possible, and many people match the driveway to a new walkway.
Ready to replace that driveway?
Give us a call and tell us what's going on with your driveway. We'll set up a time to come measure and talk through the options with you.